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An Indian Ocean Haven

Exploring Africa’s Oldest Marine Protected Area – Tsitsikamma

 

Established in 1964, Tsitsikamma is the oldest MPA in Africa and a treasure trove of marine life. This 294 km2 MPA is a valuable national asset due its long-term protection.

For over 50 years it has protected healthy intertidal and subtidal habitats and their associated marine communities and species. The MPA extends from Groot Rivier East (near Eerste Rivier) to Groot Rivier West (near Nature’s Valley), a length of approximately 60 km and it stretches 5.6 km out to sea. This wild stretch of coastline is characterized by dramatic cliffs and rugged rocks, backed by forests home to ancient yellowwood trees and fynbos grasslands. The MPA was established to protect the rich diversity of marine life found in the area including algae, invertebrates and fish. The area is important as it protects a high proportion of endemic species characteristic of the warm temperate Agulhas Ecoregion. A large number of line fish species, which are heavily overexploited elsewhere are protected within this MPA including roman, dageraad and red steenbras. The high cliffs and rough seas characteristic of this spectacular coastline has meant that this area has been a de factor MPA as it has always been difficult for fishermen to access, and this was one of the reasons it was proclaimed as an MPA. Although it was initially proclaimed in 1964, changes to regulations were made in 2000 and 2016. The area supports many birds including seabirds such as Cape cormorants, terns, kelp gulls and oystercatchers but the Knysna turaco and African finfoot are also special birds often seen in the coastal forest and estuary. Humpback and southern right whales pass through the MPA, while pods of bottlenose and humpback dolphins are often seen in the waves.

Tsitsikamma is also famous for the Cape clawless otter which may sometimes be seen frolicking in the breakers. As the oldest MPA in Africa, the pristine ecosystems of the park provide an important reference area that scientists use to understand change in marine ecosystems. The MPA is the marine equivalent of the Kruger National Park and is a major tourist attraction. Thousands of local and international tourists visit the area each year, and hike the exclusive Dolphin Trail (Slack Packing with only 18 guests) & Otter Hiking Trail.

The MPA is managed by South African National Parks and the entire MPA is a no-take area, except for 20% of the shoreline where local community members are permitted to fish. The MPA itself provides a valuable benchmark for scientists to study healthy fish stocks.

Follow this spectacular coastline by hiking the Dolphin Trail – a slack packing trail with luxury accommodation enroute.

One of the many beautiful rock pools along The Dolphin Trail.

The viewing deck above the Storms River mouth is an idyllic spot to watch the sun set.

Dolphin Species in Tsitsikamma MPA

Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncatus)

  • Description: Known for their friendly and playful nature, bottlenose dolphins are a favorite among locals and tourists. They have sleek, grey bodies with a lighter underside, enabling them to camouflage from predators and prey.
  • Behavior: These dolphins often ride the waves and are known for their acrobatic displays, such as leaping out of the water and tail-slapping.
  • Habitat: Preferring coastal waters, they are often seen near the rocky shores of Tsitsikamma, hunting for fish and squid.
  • Conservation Status: Least concern, but their habitat depends on protected areas like the Tsitsikamma MPA.

Common Dolphin (Delphinus delphis)

  • Description: True to their name, common dolphins are widely distributed in temperate and tropical oceans. They are recognized by their hourglass-shaped yellow and grey pattern on their sides.
  • Behavior: These dolphins are highly social and often travel in large pods of hundreds, sometimes forming “super pods.” They are fast swimmers, capable of reaching speeds of over 60 km/h, and often accompany boats.
  • Habitat: They are more common offshore but occasionally come closer to the coast within the Tsitsikamma MPA.
  • Conservation Status: Least Concern.

Dolphins (Common and Bottlenose) are often seen closer to shore surfing the waves.

What time of the year can you expect to see whales in Tsitsikamma

Humpback Whales (Megaptera novaeangliae)

  • Season: June to November
  • Highlights: Humpback whales migrate northward during winter to breed in warmer waters and return south in spring. During their return journey, they often pass close to the coastline, making Tsitsikamma a fantastic spot for observing their playful breaches and tail slaps.

Southern Right Whales (Eubalaena australis):

  • Season: July to November
  • Highlights: These gentle giants come close to the shore during winter and early spring to calve and nurse their young in the calm, protected bays of the South African coastline. They are often seen near Tsitsikamma’s dramatic cliffs and rocky shores.

Occasional Sightings:

  • Bryde’s Whales (Balaenoptera brydei) can sometimes be seen year-round, as they do not migrate but prefer warmer waters like those along the Tsitsikamma coast.

For the best whale-watching experience, early mornings and calm seas during their migration season are ideal. Many visitors spot whales from lookout points along the coastline, such as the suspension bridge at Storms River Mouth or along the Otter Trail.

Humpback and Southern Right Whales can be seen off the coast from June to November.

What fish species do you find in the Tsitsikamma Marine Protected Area

Reef and Linefish Species

  • Roman (Chrysoblephus laticeps) – A bright orange reef fish endemic to South Africa.
  • Dageraad (Chrysoblephus cristiceps) – A prized linefish species, also endemic.
  • Red Steenbras (Petrus rupestris) – A critically endangered species.
  • Black Musselcracker (Cymatoceps nasutus) – Known for its powerful jaws and large size.
  • White Musselcracker (Sparodon durbanensis) – A robust fish often found near rocky reefs.
  • Galjoen (Dichistius capensis) – South Africa’s national fish, commonly found in surf zones.
  • Strepie (Sarpa salpa) – A small, golden-striped fish that travels in schools.
  • Cape Knifejaw (Oplegnathus conwayi) – A striking species with sharp, beak-like teeth.

Pelagic and Open-Water Fish

  • Yellowtail (Seriola lalandi) – A fast-swimming predator often seen near reefs.
  • Kob (Argyrosomus spp.) – A large and iconic fish species.
  • Hottentot Seabream (Pachymetopon blochii) – Found in shallow, rocky waters.

Sharks and Rays

  • Pyjama Shark (Poroderma africanum) – A small, striped shark endemic to South Africa.
  • Leopard Catshark (Poroderma pantherinum) – A beautifully patterned species found near reefs.
  • Smoothhound Sharks (Mustelus spp.) – Small, harmless sharks common in the area.
  • Bull Ray (Pteromylaeus bovinus) – A large ray with graceful movements.

Other Species of Interest

  • Cape Gurnard (Chelidonichthys capensis) – A bottom-dwelling species with wing-like pectoral fins.
  • John Dory (Zeus capensis) – A rare and unusual-looking fish with a distinctive dark spot.
  • Bluespotted Klipfish (Clinus venustris) – A small, colorful fish often found in rock pools.

The Tsitsikamma MPA is home to a wide range of fish species.

The Tsitsikamma MPA protects these species, allowing them to thrive in a safe habitat, free from overfishing. It’s also a hotspot for endemic species, meaning many of these fish are found nowhere else in the world, making its conservation even more vital.

The rugged and remote Tsitsikamma coastline as seen from The Fernery Lodge & Spa.